North Americans shake hands when they meet someone new or maybe hug a friend in greeting. South Americans kiss (on the cheek). I had, of course, read about this custom in all my research leading up to my departure, but I guess I thought it was just saved for close friends and family. It's not. They kiss hello, they kiss goodbye, they kiss perfect strangers (like me). The only exception is men greeting men. I've been kissed (on the cheek) by more people since I've been here than I have in my entire life. Actually, it really only took a few weeks to get to that point, I'm just getting around to writing about it now. My right cheek is probably a petri dish of germs. Of course, if you're not used to this custom, it can produce quite a few awkward moments. If you stick your hand out for a shake and the other person moves in for the kiss, what do you do with your hand? The worst, of course, is if both parties go for the same cheek, which creates a very awkward close call. I've gotten the system down now, though. Always offer and kiss the right cheek.
When I worked at the library I used to watch all the teens hug each other constantly. It seemed as if they had to hug each other even after one returned from the bathroom as if they hadn't seen each other in ages. I can't imagine what would happen if one of them studied abroad and brought back this custom. It would be a nightmare for my former co-workers. My fellow gringos and I have picked up on the greeting kiss. (Although we're not as bad as the library teens. We save it for absences longer than a few hours.) It just seems like the thing to do. So don't be surprised if I lay a wet one on you the next time I see you. I'm just being polite.
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